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The apostle islands
Escape to Wisconsin's Superior sanctuary
by katie thurmes
Sublimity replaces solitude as you watch the glowing embers of sunrise pull Lake Superior out of a frosted night sky. The golden spectacle splashes bands of orange and pink across the ice-encrusted lake as shadows of birch trees dance along the snowy shoreline. Then you notice something. The glittering Big Dipper of the northern sky is superseded by a new constellation as a cluster of silhouettes emerges from this backdrop.
Sitting quietly in the largest of the Great Lakes, 22 islands compose the Apostle Islands archipelago, a patchwork of sandstone sanctuaries just off the Bayfield Peninsula in northwestern Wisconsin. Home to sea caves, old growth forests, beautiful beaches and abundant wildlife, these islands are 600 million years of geology at work.
While this collection of gems received its name from early Jesuits, its transcendence now draws a new breed of disciples—outdoor enthusiasts seeking to escape the pandemonium of city sidewalks for the stillness of nature. In winter, these are the few who exchange their loafers for snowshoes, tramping quietly among the islands’ snow-laden wooded trails and sparkling ice caves. Yet as the area transforms into the “Caribbean of the North,” these same visitors paddle sea kayaks from island to island in pursuit of tranquil bays. Whether by sea kayak or snowshoes, serenity awaits year-round as the islands whisper, “Welcome.”
“When you get out in really deep snow, you get to see why somebody wears snowshoes and what effect they have, and that makes it fun,” says Mark Eggleson, park superintendent at Big Bay State Park. “There are marshy areas of the park that are difficult to get to most of the year, but in the wintertime you can snowshoe back in those areas and see beaver dams and lodges, whitetail deer, eagles flying overhead, otter tracks … you name it.”
The wooded island offers remoteness unrivaled by other snowshoeing destinations. Here, you can get away from the bustle of city noises, heeding to nothing but the sound of your own tracks and the cracking of branches as heaving snow falls off of a red oak’s limbs.
“It’s just like a leisurely walk in the woods,” says Larry McDonald, owner of Apostle Islands Outfitters (AIO) in Bayfield. “But if you want to treat it like you’re climbing Mount Everest, it can be a lot harder too … then again, most of us don’t want to do that.”
Judging from the laughter in McDonald’s voice, snowshoeing needn’t be an Everest expedition. Big Bay State Park offers 2.6 miles of groomed snowshoe trails for those who aren’t quite ready for winter backcountry travel. Snowshoeing dates back 6,000 years and offers a simplicity that caters to beginners.
“It’s something just about anybody can do,” says John Peterson, an outfitter at Bodin’s on the Lake. “If you can walk, you can snowshoe.”
And it’s inexpensive, too. Several outfitters in the Bayfield area offer reasonable snowshoe rental rates at $15 per day. Bodin’s on the Lake and AIO offer contemporary snowshoes. Those seeking a step back in time can try a pair of traditional wooden snowshoes from AIO. They also provide a brief introduction to the sport for those who want it. Visitors to the area should also expect to pay for a permit at the state park.
Getting to Big Bay State Park in the winter can be an experience in itself, a point underscored by McDonald. Before the lake freezes over, visitors can hop on the Madeline Island Ferry in Bayfield. Come winter, you can take the well-maintained and carefully monitored “ice road” from Bayfield to the island. Or for something different, catch a ride on the windsled—a cross between a plane and a boat. The ice road is usually open from mid-January to mid-March, but be sure to check ice conditions with the National Park Service Headquarters in Bayfield.
For ice road skeptics and beauty-seekers, explore the ice caves just off the main shoreline of Bayfield at Meyers Beach. This beach, which is part of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, is home to sandstone sea caves where frozen waterfalls and icicles drip from layered rock to create an incandescent palate of peppermints and blues.
“Going to the ice caves is worth its weight in ice, I suppose,” McDonald jokes. “Or gold. It’s a spectacular experience.”
You do not need snowshoes to visit these crystal wonders unless the snowfall is unusually high, but snowshoeing can add an extra dimension to the experience. The ice caves are open depending on the frozenness of the lake, sometimes changing daily. Call the ice caves hotline at (715) 779-3398, ext. 499 to verify their accessibility.
Winter in the Apostle Islands also brings with it the added benefits of reduced lodging rates and quieter crowds. And if you’re lucky, you might just catch a magical display of northern lights bringing life to the darkened sky.
With several outfitters in the area offering sea kayak rental packages and guided tours, beginner and intermediate paddlers alike can partake in this island-hopping fun. The season runs from June to September, with later months bringing warmer water temperatures. Living Adventure Inc. and Trek & Trail, both based in Bayfield, offer guided half-day and day trips as well as multi-day tours ranging from about $50 to more than $600.
“We generally recommend guided trips for first time kayakers because they get so much knowledge wrapped into their trips, especially up on Lake Superior where things like judgment of moving from island to island come into play,” says Gail Green, co-founder and director of Living Adventure Inc. “With an outfitter, you can really focus on just learning the kayak skills and gain a general sense of the experience.”
For a little more than $90, you can take a guided day trip exploring the sea caves in the area. These caves, a local favorite, range in size and shape with some forming delicate arches and domes, and others boasting a labyrinth of channels or opening up into giant chambers.
“It’s really fun paddling along something with that much dimensionality to it,” Green says. “You get a real sense of your own size and your paddling motion.”
For the self-sufficient adventurer or experienced paddler, kayak rental packages, including all the necessities, are available. Single, double and triple-seat kayaks can be rented for as short as four hours or up to multiple nights, at costs ranging from about $20 to $190. Most outfitters require you to take an introductory safety course for $50 before taking the boat out on your own.
Whether you take a guided tour or go your own route, the area is held as some of the best freshwater kayaking in the world. As you paddle across the glassy waters and around sand spits, you might even hear a loon calling in the distance.
“Lake Superior is in that genre of great places to go,” Green emphasizes with reflection. “And kayaking is the most unobtrusive way to experience it. You’re so close to the water, making it the best way to actually get out there and be part of the environment.”
To fully experience the area, paddlers can also camp on the islands. Options range from campsites with modern facilities to “leave no trace” wilderness experiences. For those of you who prefer to camp out of the back of your car, try one of the 60 modern sites offered at Big Bay State Park. Camping permits, which are required for all overnights in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, can be obtained from the park headquarters in Bayfield. One of the more highly prized permits for those seeking isolation belongs to Bear Island. If you get the permit to this island, it is yours and yours alone.
“When we’re just sitting on the beach at night, we may be only an hour’s paddle from the mainland, but the only thing you’ll see looking north are the northern lights and the lights of traders going past to Duluth,” Eggleson recalls of his camping experiences. “There’s nothing else out there … just black sky with stars that will knock your socks off.”
And that is part of the appeal of the Apostle Islands. As the sun sets, you can look toward the horizon at beauty not littered by development. Above you hangs nothing but a starry ceiling. Within you, a calming peace. Together, these elements characterize the Apostle Islands no matter the season—a constellation of islands that is truly unforgettable.
©curb magazine - winter 2005
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