Sidebar: Becoming Certified Organic
What the heck does organic mean anyway?

By Amy Knapp

Organic farming means produce has been raised without conventional pesticides or artificial fertilizers. Livestock are treated with antibiotics only when needed and are free of growth hormones. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, which regulates organics standards, “Organic farming systems rely on ecologically based practices such as cultural and biological pest management.”

Certification takes three years. That is the amount of time believed to rid the soil of any residual fertilizers or pesticides. In the transition years, farmers cannot call their foods organic, but they can put up signs indicating what methods they use.

Tricia Bross, owner of Luna Circle Farm in Rio, Wis., has been farming organics for 19 years. Over the years, she has seen consumer awareness skyrocket. “When I started 19 years ago, I had to explain it every day,” Bross says. “I moved my farm seven years ago. I spent three years not certified. During that time, I saw a change, a greater awareness. Being certified became a bigger deal. Checking practices means something to people.”

Bross says she chose organics for the health of consumers and the environment. Her mother had cancer, and Bross wanted to live a more healthful life. She was also bothered by environmental degradation, particularly water quality.

“One of the main reasons had less to do with food and more to do with what we’re doing to our water,” Bross says. “You and I are blips in the world, whereas what we do to the water will last for generations.”

Organics also left more money in her pocket. “Organic and small-scale agriculture in general, selling directly to the customer, at a farmers’ market or as a CSA, you retain more profit,” Bross says. “Organic adds another piece to that.”

Some farmers, however, find the certification process not worth the effort. Chris Klaeser operates Middlebury Hills, a community-supported agriculture farm in Barneveld, Wis. Although the farm follows organic practices and several health care providers offer their customers rebates for participating in the CSA, he has no intention of becoming certified.

“I’m a veteran,” Klaeser says. “I’ve had enough of the federal government.”

Chew on that.