In a chapel elegantly adorned with flowers and white linens, guests arrive and quietly take their seats. A woman enters in a lovely cocktail dress escorted by a tuxedoed usher. Behind them, her date shuffles along, hands buried in the loose pockets of his khaki pants, his torso drowning in the smock of a dress shirt left open at the collar. The well-tailored groom is set and the congregation stands as the bride … wait a second … khakis?!
Gentlemen, take note: how you present yourself speaks volumes about your attitude and personality, so acknowledge and respect the important occasions in your life and dress appropriately. More specifically, grow up and buy yourself a suit.
Formal occasions, like weddings, funerals, interviews or big meetings, call for a certain décor. A classic, quality suit you can don for any occasion is therefore a necessary asset.
Men who work in an office will generally need a suit for at least four days of the week in addition to the initial interview, but that doesn’t mean men who don’t work in an office get off the hook.
“A good suit is a critical component for every successful man’s wardrobe,” says Tim Ryan, owner and president of Harley’s Store for Men in Shorewood.
If you own or manage a business, you will attend meetings with superiors, other stakeholders or perhaps banks. When applying for a loan, a bank will be more willing to help if you look like you can pay it back, but if you show up improperly attired, you send a message that you don’t take yourself or the situation seriously and they shouldn’t waste time or money on you.
In other formal occasions, arriving underdressed sends similar negative messages. “I think it [shows] a lack of respect,” says Don Zegers, owner of Zegers’ Clothiers in De Pere, “I think it underlines a respect factor as you enter that room.”
The basics
Men’s suits, categorized by style, generally follow one of three fashions: the European, or Italian, style, the British style, or the American, or “sack” suit.
While the anatomical specifics technically set them apart—the number of buttons on the coat, lapel size, shoulder pads—according to Ryan, the main differences between the styles lie in the silhouette.
An American suit offers a classic but not-too-trim look with a softer or more natural shoulder, while the British style sports a more built up, squared shoulder.
The European look remains the most stylized and contemporary with a narrower, trimmer silhouette.
Like different cuts of jeans, each style of suit tends to flatter one body type more than others. The European style especially compliments tall men with lean builds; however, the double-breasted coat of this look can also camouflage a stockier build, so you can have your beer and drink it too, just see a tailor to keep the torso elongated.
The forgiving cut of the British style also works well for less shapely men if cut from a simple fabric.
The standard three-button coat gives the illusion of height, and the fading pad of the military-inspired shoulder can balance a wider waist and create a more built look to the arms.
For every man—but especially guys with large chests—the extremely versatile American suit with its two-button coat makes for a wise purchase. In fact, Ryan suggests that for any man, “a classic, two-button, flat-front pant model is generally flattering on all body types.”
When looking for an investment piece, this clean, classic look should come first on your list. And though each style looks different on every man, if you have already acquired some wardrobe staples and you want to try some different looks, Ryan argues the right size and correct fit “can make any silhouette work.”
If you’re about to purchase your first suit, or one you intend to keep for a long time, stick with a two-button coat.
“If a guy’s going to get a good suit, one suit, get a good two-button,” Zegers says. “Two-button never leaves—it’s timeless.”
The two-button look conveys height, slims the waist and sits you perfectly between the goals of looking fashionable and owning a classic, long-lasting piece.
A one-button coat, considered a fashion suit, may fall in and out of style and doesn’t work as well for shorter guys.
Within reason, the more buttons on the coat, the taller the wearer will look, but before you go off and buy yourself a three-button coat, know that it is also a fashion suit from the ‘90s and more difficult to “pull off.”Fabrics
“A good suit is a critical component for every successful man’s wardrobe,” says Tim Ryan, owner and president of Harley’s Store for Men in Shorewood.
Fabric choice inherently factors into the price of the garment, but also into whether you purchase a short-term outfit or a long-term investment. A favorite among designers and wearers alike, wool offers a classic finish and hardy durability.
However, pay attention to quality and blend when purchasing wool. The wrong blend can undermine the durability of the fabric, and while a heavier 200-thread count will keep you warm in winter, you’ll be king-of-the-pit-stains in summer.
Zegers recommends an all wool suit.
“There’s no synthetic in the fabric like in a poly-wool blend,” he says. “And wool keeps its shape better and doesn’t break down. It’s a little tougher fabric, so its going to last longer.”
Ask a salesman about thread-count and weight, and look for plain, dark colors for flexibility.
“You can’t go wrong with navy, charcoal or black,” Zegers says. “Those colors are very strong for just about every occasion.”
Cotton or linen, while perfectly wearable, do not make wise investments for your first or only suit. Nowhere near as durable or classic as wool, cotton suits also crease easily (but undoubtedly rock with the sleeves rolled up, a pink tee underneath and white loafers—Miami Vice-style). And linen, though great for warm weather fashion suits, wrinkles as soon as it leaves the hanger and may be inappropriate for some occasions.
If you will purchase many suits over your lifetime, fashionable cotton and linen suits offer opportunity for individuality and personal flair, but if you are new to suits or buying just one to last a long time, stick with wool.
Where to get it
When purchasing a suit, especially your first, go to the right place. A large department store will have adequate help and can afford to purchase in large amounts. But for a truly one-of-a-kind experience and individual attention, look local.
Smaller hometown stores have knowledgeable salesmen committed to helping you make the best decision, and owners and staff want to build long-term relationships, so they take care to make you comfortable and to establish a level of trust.
Buying a suit is a personal endeavor, so don’t worry about following trends or replicating that Tommy Hilfiger ad you saw. Find a store in line with your tastes and consult a salesman.
Wherever you decide to go, talk to someone who works there. You can’t aimlessly roam racks by yourself and expect a ‘Clooney-esque’ finishing look. Measuring and sizing are integral to the fit and overall look of the suit and require the expertise of an experienced salesman.
Many stores, like Zegers’, offer tailoring, but he emphasizes the importance of the initial fit. “Obviously, the less alterations you do, the better,” he says, “and that’s why people come here. We’re trying to get them the best possible fit right off the bat without [needing] a lot of alterations.”
Fit is everything
A proper fit is the most important part of purchasing a suit. One of the most common mistakes menswear specialists see, an ill-fitting suit, particularly a jacket that’s too big, which can ruin the whole appearance of the look.
While the baggy look may have qualified you for the cool crowd in high school, senior year is over. Most people notice your face and torso first, so if you’re swimming in a jacket that’s poorly fit—the shoulders sit too broad, the sleeves hang too long or the body appears too wide—you won’t look as refined as you should in such a classic garment.
“Suits aren’t an off-the-rack item,” Ryan says. “Most things need some sort of tailoring.” Most menswear stores offer complimentary tailoring or factor it into the price of the suit itself, so whether you think the suit needs alterations or not, ask a salesman about the correct fit and options for adjustments.
Craig Butenhoff, owner of Jazzman in Madison, says the most common tailoring work he does consists of taking in the body on jackets, and he insists it’s a necessary alteration for most.On a budget
For men just starting to establish a cash flow, or otherwise on a tight budget, your main focus should be quality. While a good suit can run expensive, a classic, versatile and sturdy piece can last decades and save you money in the long run.
“Don’t necessarily buy the least expensive suit even if you’re on a low budget,” Ryan says. “If you’re on a low budget, you should be buying a better suit because in the long run, it will last you longer.”
You don’t have to drop a huge amount of cash, but don’t walk in thinking cheap because that’s what you’ll look when you walk out. Carefully consider style, fabric, construction and fit to get the most for your money.
A durable, classically cut, well-made and well-fitting suit is timeless. And while your shape may change, if properly constructed from quality fabric, the one suit you bought will stand up to alterations and updating to fit you again.
At Harley’s, the store motto reads: “Things of quality have no fear of time,” and Ryan emphasizes a classic suit that never goes out of style will actually save you money because it will last longer, hold up better and stand up to adjustments. This purchase will be a staple to your wardrobe, so take your time, learn all that you can and welcome the advice of an experienced professional, so that you won’t feel any regrets later.
A small budget does require flexibility and versatility, so aim for plain, dark colors. A simple dark suit can look different, but just as sharp, with different shirt-and-tie combinations.
While you should take care not to wear one piece excessively more than the other, a clean, well-fitted suit can allow you to separate the pieces to dress down a bit but still look sophisticated.
A good pair of dark, flat-front slacks (lose the blousy pleats) can easily fit under a sweater or dress shirt, and sporting a well-fit coat as a blazer over dress pants, or even nice jeans, can create a modern, polished look.
Completing the look
When you step out in your new or updated suit, don’t neglect the rest of the ensemble. The shirt and tie you choose can make or break the look.
Solid, traditional bases include white, cream and blue shirts, but any color that fits with the fabric of the suit works, and branching into bolder palettes can offer some personal expression.
Neckties follow the same essential principles: wear plain, simple colors and fabrics for a traditional, classic look, but ties and different combinations with shirts can also bring a little personality to your look.
However, keep your color combinations occasion-appropriate. While a lavender shirt and orange tie might impress at a wedding, it can demand too much attention, in a bad way, at a funeral, or send the wrong message in a job interview.
“Sometimes a necktie expresses personality,” Zegers says. “[You] might wear a tie differently for an interview than a wedding. In those [serious] situations, you could be judged by your tie. Your interviewer could judge you right off the bat for wearing a flamboyant tie.”
And don’t forget about footwear. The shoe should constitute part of the ensemble and overall look.
“[You] have to have the right shoe to finish the outfit,” Butenhoff says. A classic, quality, leather shoe makes a solid statement, and, if kept in good condition, a wise investment as well.
“Shoes are part of finishing the look—keep them clean and in good condition,” Ryan says. “Women notice shoes on men. They look for the whole ensemble to be put together.”
That means get rid of your clunky Doc Martin look-alikes—they ruin the line of the suit.
And for those on a budget, many brands offer quality shoes at affordable prices. Some have introduced slightly more casual styles that offer more versatility, able to finish both a dressed-up suit look and a blazer and jeans.
“There are some exciting new shoes in between,” says Butenhoff, referencing some middle line Calvin Klein and Steve Madden models. “[They] can really finish the look and aren’t very expensive—in the $60 to $70 range.”
YOUR suit
What wearing a suit, and “pulling off” any look, really comes down to is confidence. Buy a suit that makes you comfortable and happy and it will last.
“(Go with) what you feel good in,” Zegers says. “Because that’s really what its about. It gives you confidence going into any situation. It demands respect.”
Presenting yourself well and dressing appropriately really do say a lot about your approach to your job, your relationships and your life, so embrace it. People, especially women, sense confidence. So wear your suit with dignity and pride—they will notice.