Staying small

Land fragmentation, which is traditionally seen as a threat to family farming, happens as farmers sell off land to developers. It makes irrigation, fertilization, grazing and harvest more difficult, time consuming and expensive.

Bigger doesn’t always mean better, however, and those small pieces of land can keep the right farm in business. Tricia Bross owns Luna Circle Farm, an organic produce CSA in Rio, about 30 miles northeast of Madison. Her farm is 20 acres with four acres in cash crops.

“A dairy farmer could not survive on 20 acres,” Bross says. “A lot of us are managing to find niches where it’s small enough to make almost a living off of.” She works off the farm in winter to supplement her income.

More small farms could mean better access to fresh, local foods and, sometimes, the farms themselves. “If you look at all the farmers’ markets popping up, obviously people are interested in buying local,” Bross says, who sells at the Dane County Farmers’ Market.

Restaurants are also getting in on the buying local craze. Fountain Prairie sells their Highland cattle meat to L’Etoile, Bluephies and other restaurants in Madison. Harmony Valley sells to L’Etoile too, as well as to a number of restaurants in the Twin Cities.

Some farms give visitors the opportunity to get a taste not just of the food, but also of the farming life. Ridgeland Harvest holds farm days so people can tour the farm and see food growing. Fountain Prairie welcomes guests to explore, get their feet muddy and take in the honest smells of the farm. They also host a meal in the prairie, Outstanding in the Field, with food provided by local growers and prepared by area chefs. John Priske calls it “shortening the food chain.”

“Heaven must have local food, I’m sure,” Priske says.

1  |  2  |  3